MOOMINS M.C.

After a late start I made my way to Winton just in time to see a most amazing sunset. Along the way I spotted more flood damage, a few road trains and a surprising number of birds on the road, two of which met their fate at my bull bar. I stopped at one point to take some photos and only then realised why there were so many feathered creatures on the bitumen. The mesh I’d fitted to the bull bar in order to protect my lights from errant stones was now an entomologist’s wet dream. The variety of insects was only second to the variety of postures they’d placed themselves in during their final moments on this planet. Some parts of them even made it through the mesh and plastered themselves on the lights and bodywork. I’m not looking forward to cleaning the front of the car. Tomorrow I intend to pick some local brains about road conditions and various attractions on my route.

Strange traffic?

Tuesday 19^th Feb

I drove out of Winton to the only known site in the world where there is a fossilised record of a dinosaur stampede. It was interesting to stand there next to this story from millions of years ago, kind of makes you feel temporally insignificant. Today was my first lot of proper outback dirt road driving and I had to pay attention as there were quite a few sections of road requiring full concentration due to the water damage, cattle, horses, ponies, even standing and flowing water. Had the first proper creek crossing and it went ok. I then tried to drive to the ruins of a homestead and instead found myself at the door of the one which replaced it. There I met Nancy and her son Alan. They had just sold the 100 square mile pastoral property to their neighbour and were moving to Winton. They offered me cold beer and a chat, both of which I was very grateful for. From there I drove to a little opal mining settlement called Opalton. Unfortunately on the way I added a young kangaroo to the two birds and countless insects my car has claimed the lives of. Poor bugger didn’t die outright so I drove over his head a couple of times before his little heart stopped beating. I camped at Opalton and enjoyed a meal of Chicken fillets, mushroom, onion, carrots, corn on the cob and salad, washed down with some beer I managed to extract from the non licenced outpost.

Winton road train.

Nancy and Alan.

Fossil stampede!

Termites anyone?

Wednesday 20^th Feb

I started off with a quick morning chat with Anne and Ken who operate the outpost as well a couple of opal mines in the area. Ken was more than willing to share all sorts of stories from the area, including the nasty ones where people have murdered each other for opal / money, people who have gone missing as well as general stories about opal mining history. I bought a little polished opal from him and was also given a couple of little rough samplers.

Not long afterwards one of the locals turned up. Tarzan is an interesting character. Originally form Croatia he came to Australia in 1967. He’s been working in this area for 12 years. I was about to take off to fossick around for some opals when he invited me into his camp. Like all the other characters around here it was a bit rough, but obviously well sorted just for an old miner. As well as solar powered deep cycle batteries providing electricity for lights, radio, etc. it was sporting gas powered fridge freezer and stove. Essentially it had all the mod cons, they just looked a little different. Two caravans under a tin roof with a few little “rooms” with all sorts of bits and pieces lying around. I suggested we have a couple of the beers I had from the night before and that developed into a gourmet lunch into which we both provided food. Afterwards Tarzan was adamant I take some opals with me and just kept giving me more and more.

I did have a fossick and found a couple of low grade before leaving back towards Winton. I can see the attraction of mining for these little gems. They’re all individually beautiful and the chance of striking it big can be a huge motivator.

Tonight it’s bush camping on my own under the full moon and the southern stars.

Chalky, Ken, Anne and Eric.

Tarzan.

Let this be a warning.

Local birds hanging out.

Thursday 21^st Feb

This morning I charged my lap top off the car using the inverter, which is supposed to turn itself off when the voltage drops too low. Unfortunately the voltage got too low to start my car and seeing as I wasn’t parked on a hill I had to wait either for the battery to warm up and wait over an hour or so. Or I could flag down the next passing car which happened to be the Australia Post run. A little old lady who could hardly see over the steering wheel of her four wheel drive ute, had to be gently persuaded to pause her mail run to give me a jump start. Man when they talk about the mail getting through no matter what, they don’t muck about. Upon getting back to Winton I found some lovely vintage postcards from the 60’s and sent off a couple. After fuelling the car up I headed west to Boulia.

Half way along the 360km route is the Middleton Hotel, and that’s all there is there, but they do serve mighty cold beer!!!! Oh there are a couple of camels to draw the wagon, one racing camel and a helicopter used to muster cattle.

I proceeded onwards to a place where the ruins of an old hotel are accompanied by James Brown and The Cure. Driving through mesas then flat endless plains, surrounded by willy willies ( small tornados made of dust, the biggest I saw was about 30 metres across) was quite eerie, especially as there is hardly any traffic. All the locals give you a little salute as they pass too, ranging between the lifting of a finger off the steering wheel to a full armed wave. Anyway, the hotel site is also reputedly where you can see the Min Min lights, a strange phenomenon occurring for years and likened to an emu running around with a light attached to its bum. Upon arrival I was disappointed to find that the ruins consisted of and old graveyard, and lots of broken old bottles and some bits and pieces of tins cans and metal parts. It was getting ridiculously hot now and the hot northerly wind wasn’t helping any. I sat in the car and contemplated setting up camp but as there were no ruins to photograph at sunset and the possibility of seeing the Min Min lights was dubious I decided to keep going to Boulia. I was hoping to catch the sunset and photograph the old police barrack ruins, but the sun beat me to it. Tired, hot and bordering on dehydrated I turned around and headed to the local hotel. All I wanted was a cold beer, a steak and a room for the night. The beer was no where near as cold as at Middleton, the steak was pretty good and the room tidy enough, but the air con was a little asthmatic.

One thing I have come to appreciate is the fact that being the off season due to the incredible heat and rain, there are no tourists around. Mind you, I’ve not seen any rain since I left the coast on Monday, just hot hot hot, All the people I run into are locals and they are more than happy to share a yarn or two.

Tomorrow I head for Birdsville and check out some more desert like country.

Gorgeous country this!

More of the same.

A mesa, just like in the westerns!!

Valerie and her daughter at the hotel.

Rust in peace.

Outback grave.

// posted by ZUBA @ Friday, February 22, 2008